Friday, November 23, 2012

THE PARIS LETTER: Barbecue in Paris?

A few months ago I was walking around near Bastille and I saw this place:

Yes, I know the picture quality is crap. I"m working on it.
 Blues Bar-B-Q? What the heck is this doing in Paris? I have to admit, I viewed this with some trepidation. It must have been not long after my burrito-with-swiss-cheese experience here. Or maybe my worst pregnant ordering mistake, the pineapple & velveeta quesadilla I had in Helsinki.

But I digress. Yes, I was skeptical that there could be any type of edible American BarBQ in Paris. I mean, wouldn't you be? But then my friend Patrick's office turned out to be literally next door, so we decided to go for lunch.

And you know what? It is not bad at all! The restaurant is run by an American woman, Diana, who was busy fielding tons of phone calls the day we showed up as dozens of Americans in Paris tried in vain to make reservations for the restaurant's Thanksgiving dinner the next day. I guess just about every other American here forgot about the holiday just like I did!

Diana and I chatted for a bit about cuts of meat here in France, one of my favorite topics ever since  tried to cook a brisket and found the cut didn't exist here. Blues BarBQ does a Texas style barbecued beef brisket, and Diana told me she has to order it several days ahead of time, get the entire chest of the cow delivered, and then butcher it herself to get the right cut! Apparently, the French DO use the cow chest - where the brisket comes from - but cut it in the opposite direction, and use it to make plat de cote, flat steaks that don't really exist in the US. Though the French do cook some cuts of meat for a long time (think Boeuf Bourguignon, etc), they're not big on the slow & low cooking of giant hunks of cow or pork that good BBQ is based on - in fact they find it quite strange - so this restaurant must be very exotic for them.

As you can see, it thoughtfully comes with a wet-nap.
I could write about cuts of meat all day, BUT back to the actual food. I had a pulled pork sandwich and a side of macaroni and cheese.

First of all, it was PERFECTLY proportioned, which is one thing I love about France in general - That I can go to a BBQ restaurant and leave satisfied but not stuffed to the brim, as I would in the US.

Second - I will not lie, the sandwich was a bit dry - but very flavorful! - and the mac & cheese a little bland - but very creamy! - and in short, I would totally go back. Honestly, this place is like a breath of fresh air amidst the foie gras, and the woman is butchering her own BRISKET for god's sake. She is committed to the right things.

I also heard her mention that she does a lot of catering for the American Embassy - and she will cater private parties as well. I haven't even trid their super meat platter yet...

BLUES BAR-B-Q
1 Rue Sedaine 75011 Paris
M: Bastille or Chemin Vert
+33 (0)1 48 06 79 53
Tues-Sat lunch and dinner, open till 10PM
Sunday lunch and dinner, open till 8PM
Closed Monday

From their sign:

Le Vrai Barbecue Americain - 
Nos Viandes Sont Fumées avec le Bois Hickory
 or:
Real American Barbecue
Our meats are Hickory Smoked

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